Pemodelan Gelombang Yang Dibangkitkan Oleh Angin Untuk Lokasi Pantai Cermin Di Kecamatan Pantai Cermin Kabupaten Serdang Bedagai

Abstract

Wind waves are generally considered to be surface gravity waves caused by wind and propagating under the restoring force of gravity. These waves have maximum particle motion right at the air-sea interface, the particle motion decreases rapidly with depth. They are distributed over most of the ocean, with long waves propagating faster than short waves. The research method used for this study is quantitative analysis, namely from secondary data (wind speed and direction data) in the Pantai Cermin area using the Jonswap Parameters, Finite Water Depth and Sverdrup Munk Bretschneider methods. From the analysis results using the Windrose diagram, the dominant wind direction is 345°-15° with a percentage of 21.03%. For the Jonswap Parameters method, the maximum wave height and period are 0.906 m and 9.911 seconds. In the Finite Water Depth method, the maximum wave height and period for a depth of 3 meters are 1.304 m and 4.785 seconds, while at a depth of 10 meters they are 2.048 m and 6.743 seconds. In the Sverdrup Munk Bretschneider method, the maximum wave height and period for incomplete waves (Fetch Limited) are 1.815 m and 5.653 seconds, while for full waves (Fully Developed) they are 1.857 m and 5.750 seconds. In the results of the wave statistical return period, the maximum height results that occurred in the 100-year return period were obtained at a height of 10,445 m using the Gumbel method calculation with wave data from the Finite Water Depth method at a depth of 10 meters.