Formulasi dan Evaluasi Sediaan Emulgel yang Mengandung Minyak Biji Anggur (Vitis Vinifera L.) Sebagai Anti-Aging

Abstract

Background: One of the causes of skin aging is excessive UV exposure. UV radiation can increase free radicals that can cause cell damage. Antioxidants play an active role in neutralizing free radicals by oxidizing themselves to stabilize free radical atoms or molecules. Grape seed oil contains antioxidant compounds in the form of phenolic compounds, vitamin E and various fatty acids that can help moisturize the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. Objective: This study aimed to formulate anti-aging emulgel preparations of grape seed oil that were stable and met physical requirements, and to evaluate the anti-aging activity of the grape seed oil emulgel. Method: The emulgel preparations were made using grape seed oil at concentrations of 0% with and without 10% propylene glycol; 6% without 10% propylene glycol; and 1.5%, 3%, 6% with 10% propylene glycol. The formulation was prepared by mixing the oil and water phases, stirring until a homogeneous emulsion was formed, then dispersing it into the gel base and homogenizing the mixture. The physical quality of the preparation was then tested, including homogeneity, emulsion type, pH determination, spreadability, viscosity, and stability after 12 weeks of storage at room temperature and cycling tests. The study also included irritation testing and anti-aging effectiveness testing. Result: The semi-solid emulgel preparation was white in color and did not undergo any organoleptic changes, namely in odor, shape, or color, at room temperature for 12 weeks and during the cycling test. The quality test results of the preparation met the required standards, as indicated by its homogeneity, pH range of 5.03–6.01, viscosity of 27,531.33–36,012 cP, spreadability of 5–7 cm, and an oil-in-water emulsion type. The grape seed oil emulgel preparation did not cause any irritation reactions. The results of the anti-aging activity test showed that the grape seed oil emulgel (Vitis vinifera L.) with a concentration of 6% and 10% propylene glycol provided the best anti-aging effect, with improvements including a 41.76% increase in skin moisture, a 41.76% reduction in pore size, a 38.86% reduction in blemishes, and a 34.99% reduction in wrinkles. Conclusion: grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera L.) could be formulated into a stable emulgel dosage form at concentrations of 0% with and without 10% propylene glycol; 6% without 10% propylene glycol; and 1.5%, 3%, 6% with 10% propylene glycol, meeting physical quality standards. The grape seed oil emulgel with a concentration of 6% and 10% propylene glycol exhibited the best anti-aging activity