Uji Aktivitas Anti-aging dalam Sediaan Face Scrub yang Mengandung Arang Aktif Ampas Kopi (Coffea arabica L.) dan Vitamin E”

Abstract

Penuaan dapat diakibatkan karena penumpukan sel kulit mati yang berlebihan pada permukaan kulit. Ampas kopi merupakan produk samping dari proses penyeduhan kopi. Ampas kopi dapat dijadikan arang aktif dan digunakan sebagai zat berkhasiat dalam sediaan face scrub. Face scrub mengandung butiran kecil untuk mengangkat lapisan atas kulit, dengan arang aktif bersifat abrasive sehingga proses eksfoliasi (pengelupasan kulit) yang lembut pada kulit wajah. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk memformulasi dan uji efektivitas anti-aging sediaan face scrub dari arang aktif ampas kopi dan vitamin E. Penelitian dilakukan secara eksperimental meliputi pengolahan ampas kopi berupa pengeringan dan dijadikan arang aktif kemudian diformulasi menjadi sediaan face scrub. Konsentrasi Arang Aktif pada penelitian F1=1%; F2=2%; F3=3% dengan vitamin E 5% dan tanpa vitamin E F4=1%, F5=2% F6=3% serta F7 (hanya vitamin E 5%) dan kontrol negatif (F0) tanpa arang aktif dan vitamin E. Evaluasi sediaan face scrub meliputi uji homogenitas, uji stabilitas selama 12 minggu penyimpanan (bau, warna, pH dan konsistensi), cycling test, uji daya sebar, uji viskositas, uji sentrifugasi, uji hedonik, uji iritasi terhadap sukarelawan dan uji efektifitas anti-aging (kelembaban, pori, noda, keriput) pada kulit wajah menggunakan alat skin analyzer terhadap 24 orang sukarelawan dengan pengaplikasian pada wajah setiap sekali seminggu selama 4 minggu. Data hasil percobaan dianalisis dengan menggunakan program SPSS (Statistical Product and Service Smirnov) 22. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa semua sediaan face scrub berbentuk krim dengan butiran berwarna hitam keabuan, beraroma kopi, homogen, stabil selama penyimpanan 12 minggu, nilai pH (5,0-6,0), memiliki daya sebar 5-7 cm, viskositas (3970-3999 mPa’s), tidak terjadi pemisahan pada uji sentrifugasi dan tidak mengiritasi kulit wajah sukarelawan. Hasil uji hedonik pada sukarelawan yang paling disukai adalah sediaan F3 dan hasil uji efektifitas anti aging paling baik pada konsentrasi arang aktif 3% dan vitamin E 5% dengan peningkatan kelembaban 24,67%, penurunan pori 21,34%, noda 25,67% dan kerutan 32,66% yang dibandingkan dengan sediaan face scrub tanpa vitamin E. Berdasarkan hasil penelitian dapat disimpulkan bahwa sediaan face scrub arang aktif ampas kopi (Coffea arabica L.) pada F3 merupakan formula yang memenuhi evaluasi sediaan dan mempunyai efek anti-aging terhadap kulit wajah sukarelawan.

Aging can be caused due to excessive accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Coffee grounds are a by-product of the coffee brewing process. Coffee grounds can be used as activated charcoal and used as a nutritious substance in face scrub preparations. Face scrub contains small granules to lift the top layer of skin, with activated charcoal which is abrasive so that the exfoliation process is gentle on facial skin. This study aims to formulate and test the anti-aging effectiveness of face scrub preparations from coffee grounds activated charcoal and vitamin E. The research was carried out experimentally including processing coffee grounds in the form of drying and made into activated charcoal and then formulated into face scrub preparations. Concentration of Activated Charcoal in the study F1=1%; F2=2%; F3=3% with vitamin E 5% and without vitamin E F4=1%, F5=2% F6=3% and F7 (only 5% vitamin E) and negative control (F0) without activated charcoal and vitamin E. Evaluation of face scrub preparations includes homogeneity test, stability test for 12 weeks of storage (odor, color, pH and consistency), cycling test, dispersibility test, viscosity test, centrifugation test, hedonic test, irritation test on volunteers and anti-aging effectiveness test. (moisture, pores, spot, wrinkles) on facial skin using a skin analyzer on 24 volunteers with application to the face once a week for 4 weeks. The experimental data were analyzed using the SPSS (Statistical Product and Service Smirnov) program 22. The results showed that all face scrub preparations were in the form of cream with gray-black granules, coffee-scented, homogeneous, stable during 12 weeks of storage, pH value (5.0-6.0), had a spread of 5-7 cm, viscosity (3760-3996 mPa's), no separation occurred in the centrifugation test and did not irritate the facial skin of volunteers. The results of the hedonic test on volunteers are the most preferred preparations of F3 and the results of the anti-aging effectiveness test are the best at a concentration of 3% activated charcoal and 5% vitamin E with an increase in humidity of 24.67%, a decrease in pore size of 21.34%, stains 25.67% and wrinkles 32.66% compared to face scrub preparations without vitamin E. Based on the results of the study it can be concluded that preparation face scrub activated charcoal coffee grounds (Coffea arabica L.) in F3 is a formula that meets the evaluation of the preparation and has an anti-aging effect on the volunteer's facial skin.