Formulasi dan Evaluasi Sediaan Nanogel Ekstrak Etanol Daun Murbei (Morus alba L.) sebagai Pelembab Wajah

Abstract

Background: Mulberry leaves (Morus alba L.) contain antioxidant compounds such as alkaloids, flavonoids, polyphenols, and terpenoids that can prevent the negative effects of free radicals. Free radicals can cause dry skin, necessitating the use of moisturizing cosmetics in an appropriate form. Nanogel is a preparation with nano-sized particles that can enhance the penetration and absorption of active compounds. Objective: To formulate and evaluate the effectiveness of nanogel preparation of mulberry leaf extract as a facial moisturizer. Method: Mulberry leaf simplicia was prepared through a drying process, followed by characteristic testing and simplicia screening. The extraction of mulberry leaves was carried out using the maceration method with 96% ethanol, followed by characteristic testing and extract screening. The nanogel formulation used Carbopol 940 as the gel base with variations in mulberry leaf extract concentration 0% (F0), 1% (F1), 2% (F2), and 3% (F3). Evaluation of the nanogel preparations included organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, centrifugation, spreadability, and particle size measurement, stability testing during storage at room temperature for 12 weeks, cycling test, and moisture content skin testing. Result: The characteristics of mulberry leaf simplicia were as follows moisture content, water-soluble extract, ethanol-soluble extract, total ash, and acidinsoluble ash were 8.65; 26.37; 14.28; 9.20 and 4.03% respectively. The characteristics of mulberry leaf extract were as follows: moisture content, total ash, and acid-insoluble ash were 6.62; 4.03; and 0.79% respectively. Both simplicia and extract of mulberry leaves contained secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, saponins, glycosides, and steroids/triterpenoids. The resulting nanogel preparation was dark green, had a distinctive extract odour, semi-solid, was homogeneous, had a pH of 5.68-5.91, viscosity of 5999.93 16373.13 cP, showed no phase separation after centrifugation, had spreadability of 5.03-6.70 cm, was stable for 12 weeks at room temperature and after the cycling test, and had particle sizes ranging from 53-311 nm. The percentage of total increase in skin moisture content for F0, F1, F2, and F3 was 10.98; 33.44; 68.61; dan 115.42% respectively. Conclusion: The mulberry leaf ethanol extract (Morus alba L.) can be formulated in a nanogel preparation that is stable at room temperature storage for 12 weeks and meets the physical evaluation requirements. Mulberry leaf ethanol extract nanogel preparation is effective in increasing facial skin moisture with sig. < 0.05 between F3 and F0 (blank) after four weeks of use.